DARTH MALGUS: E.U. CONTINUITY CANON SITH LORD From The SWOTR Game
This character is well documented. Any costume renderings will be expected to depict the character as closely as possible. There are a couple of renditions of this character, specifically before and after his facial scarring. All depictions of Darth Malgus are acceptable.
Any questions concerning building this costume and this character, any comments or suggestions you may have, or for council review of new photos of this character, can be addressed by sending myself or any Council member a PM, or by posting within the following thread.http://the-dark-empire.forumotion.com/t1114-this-thread-is-for-questions-and-comments-concerning-costuming-requirements-and-standards
Home world: Dromund Kaas
Height: Over 2 meters = Over 7ft. tall
Eye color: Brown going to Yellow
Skin color: Pale to ashen
Chronological and political information
Era(s) : Old Republic era
Affiliation: Sith Empire
Known masters: Vindican
Darth Malgus Character Bio Found Here:
DARTH MALGUS: Sith Warrior. If rendering a Darth Malgus, we allow no customization. You "may" do a proximally customization which resembles Malgus, however if your costume is not on target, you will not be approved as a Canon Darth Malgus.
The under suit for this costume is very much like the one Vader wears. A Vader under suit is acceptable for the underclothing of this costume.
DARTH MALGUS: Malgus may be rendered in his pre-battle damaged or post battle damaged state. Pre-battle damaged is minus both the respirator mask and facial scars.
Post battle damage
Post battle damage
Malgus Screen Shot Sacking Coruscant
Malgus Screen Shot
Malgus life size statue
Malgus close up of chest piece
Malgus close up of face, eyes and respirator mask
Malgus close up of face, eyes, and respirator mask
Malgus boot and leg guards
Malgus full back
Malgus belt and mid section armor
THE FOLLOWING WAS PRESENTED TO TDE BY VOLUND STARFIRE TDE112.
MALGUS BUILDING DESCRIPTIONS
These parts are entirely cloth of one form or another.
The undershirt is primarily used for the neck and sleeves and appears to be based on a black loose-fitting underarmor shirt. It is made of a black shiny fabric such as underarmor, not leather, and appears to be loose but form fitting. Detail lines are sewn into the neck to appear like layered pillow-tucks. The arms have ½-inch quilting lines down from the shoulder to the wrist. It does not appear to be actual quilting, just the lines. It will include stirrups for the hands. There is a snap on the back of the hands to keep the gloves on and velcro sewn along the forearm to secure the gauntlets.
The vest is gray vinyl and has an accordion-fold detail up the front between the chest armor and the torso padding. The front has a false seam that looks like a hidden zipper, but is not. It will zip up the back to close. The accordion detail is made with a series of pockets that are glued under the front that have stiff sheets of sintra or plastic canvas that are slid in and it is backed with a piece of elastic to keep the folds from flattening. The upper part of the chest, as well as most of the back, will be made with mesh similar to Vader bodysuits. The back of the vest, from the side seam to the mesh, has a black 1/2-inch hexagonal pattern painted onto it. It has very short sleeves which have grommets to connect to the bicep armor. It will include strips of Velcro around the body to secure the torso padding as well as to secure the armor.
The cape appears to have the same texture as monks cloth and connects to the armor under the shoulder plates. It hangs onto the floor by a few inches. It has a hood built into the neck that can be pulled over the head without disturbing the rest of the cape. The edges of the hood are free of the cape, suggesting that it is sewn to the back of the neck only. The cape includes a set of grommets to Chicago screw/bolt to the back of the armor under the shoulders.
The gloves are wrist-length leather gloves with small leather patches located over the knuckles. The gloves are only pull-on, having no means of securing them around the wrist. They have side seams that are typical of driving gloves. Three grommets on the back of each hand will be used to secure the hand armor’s Chicago screws. A snap will be sewn under the top of the wrist to secure it to the undershirt.
The trousers are gray denim and have a 1-inch quilting down the leg from the waist to the knee, similar to the Darth Vader trousers. The shin has elastic across the forward quarter to keep it tight across the calf, as only the calf is visible. Velcro is sewn around the waist to hold the torso padding in place, along the front of the crotch and top of the butt to hold the cod and butt padding in place, on the thighs to hold the thigh padding, on the knees to secure the knee armor in place, and down the inside and outside of the calf to hold the calf padding. A set of suspenders will keep the trousers up and a set of stirrups will keep them tucked into the boots.
The boots are made from black leather and come up to the mid-calf. There is a black detail strip that rises from the toe of the boot half way up to top of the foot. There is a black heavy locking zipper on either side of the boot to secure them. The sole is a low boot sole with detail lines carved into it. The boot has a piece of elastic on the back to ensure a good fit (much in the same way as the sides of the Boba Fett or stormtrooper boots). The top of the boot fits over the calf padding. It will also have grommets for the armor connection.
These parts are primarily flexible, but are not entirely considered soft parts nor hard parts as they are neither cloth nor armor. They will be primarily made of craft foam and will generally be painted with a flat finish.
The biceps appear to be made of 3/8-inch firmed foam (a 1/4-inch thick base with a 1/8-inch façade). It has detail lines cut into the façade on the front and back and is formed around the biceps. The black padding appears to be 1/4-inch thick foam strips that have a pair of detail lines cut down them vertically. The entire set connects to the vest with a pair of grommets and Chicago screws. The main part is gray with a gloss finish (similar to the vest) and the pads are black with a semi-gloss finish.
The torso padding appears to be 1/2-inch thick foam. The base will be a 1/4-inch piece that is uncut with a façade of a 1/4-inch pieces glued to the top. The strips look to be 1½-inches wide. The three top strips have rounded ends and velcro to the vest and back armor. The two pieces under those are solid and wrap around the body, connecting in the rear. Below that is a strip that is 4.5-inches wide with a Velcro strip along it for the belt. The middle of the back is connected together with side release buckles (including straps that are glued under the entire center piece) to secure it and has a piece in the center to cover the buckles.
The cod armor has cut-through layers to give it the inset details over the base. It is also shaped to curve around the edges and contour along the crotch. The butt armor connects to the center piece used to secure the belt around the waist. The belt piece, cod, and butt armor have velcro under them to secure them to the trousers.
There are carved detail lines in the façade of all the padding. It is painted black with a semi-gloss finish.
The thigh padding is 3/8-inch thick foam. The base is 1/4-inch with a 1/8-inch thick façade. It is designed in faux strips and has vertical detail lines cut into the top. The base in the rear has two holes cut into it. The front of the thigh padding has a pair of holes cut down through the façade in the top and bottom. It secures to the trousers with Velcro. It is painted black with a semi-gloss finish.
The calf padding appears to be 1/2-inch thick foam; two layers of 1/4-inch foam. The façade has faux strips with vertical details lines and holes cut into it. The back has a hole through it to show the calf of the trousers. It has elastic on the front to hold it closed with Velcro and Velcro to secure the shin armor. The bottom tucks into the boots. It is painted black with a semi-gloss finish.
These parts are actual hard armor. I mostly be building them out of sintra (PVC foam board), but some of the pieces will use foam.
The shoulder armor is 1/2-inch thick and made of four layers of 1/8-inch sintra. The center two layers are solid. The top and under layers are separated as shown in the illustration, have their face edges rounded slightly, and glued onto the base with detail lines cut appropriately into the sides.. The two detail blocks on the top of the shoulder is made from four more layers of 1/8-inch sintra with a detail line cut into the sides and separate pieces across the top of the detail line. The top piece of the flap has a hole drilled into it on the front and back of the shoulder. The shoulders connect to the chest armor with Chicago screws. It is painted black with metallic aluminum weathering and given a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.
CHEST & BACK ARMOR
The chest armor is made of four layers of 1/8-inch sintra. The top piece will be cut into sections based on the images above, have the face corners rounded, and glued back into place. There is a hole in the face that is specifically for the lights. With another next to it that has a pattern etched onto it before it is reinserted. The two pieces of red acrylic will be back lit by LEDs.
The shoulders will have nylon strapping under the armor with a set of grommets for the cape to Chicago screw to. Additionally, the shoulder armor will Chicago screw into these same holes.
The back is made similar to the front, but will be made with a 3/8-inch piece of foam with a 1/8-inch foam façade. There are several detail pieces with holes cut through them as appropriate. The center hole reveals a set of holes cut through the next 1/8-inch piece under it with a 1/8-inch piece glued on top of it. There is a 1/4-inch piece near the top with a pair of screws or caps under it. There are three 1/8-inch pad pieces on either side that Velcro to the sides of the vest. There are holes through the 1/8-inch top layer for the torso padding to Velcro into. There is a Y-piece that is 1/4-inch thick and made with layers of 1/16-inch foam sheets. Finally, there is a 1/2-inch thick box on the lower right side. The bottom of the back armor also velcros under the torso padding.
Around the neck is a ring made of 1/2-inch thick foam. It has a raise on the front and back with detail boxes cut into them. The front and back have small rectangular depressions on either side of the raised piece, but the front has red LED backlit acrylic on either side.
There is a sintra overlay on the central part. The main part is made from two 16-inch sheets. There is a 1/8-inch circle on the center and another (with a 1/16-inch topper) on the other side of the bottom. The central top ring is made from a 1/8-inch piece with a 1/16-inch topper set in a hole. The central top circle is made with two 1/8-inch pieces with a 1/16-inch topper.
The sintra will have a piece of foam under it to pad it against the body. The battery pack for the LEDs would be housed in the black box on the back of the costume. It will be painted gray and black with a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to the main chest and back to show further weathering details.
The gauntlets will be made in four pieces. The two side pieces will be made of 1/8-inch sintra that is bent at angles to form around the arm. A piece of 1/16-inch sintra will go over this as a façade with appropriate cut-outs to mimic the details in the picture. Additionally, the sintra base will have details etched into it. A pair of white acrylic will be on either side and back-lit with LEDs. Opposite the LEDs will be a set of magnets under the sides to secure the bottom part of the gauntlet.
The top piece will be made from 1/8-inch sintra with a raised detail, also made of 1/8-inch sintra. It will also include the 1/16-inch façade that will have various cut-outs for the details. The back will include several pieces of white and red acrylic that are lit with LEDs. Most of these pieces will have various characters on them as appropriate. It will be permanently attached to the side pieces with Chicago screws, but it will be loose enough to allow them to spread to allow the arm in.
The bottom piece will be made in a similar fashion to the top, but will not include the lights. Also, it will have a set of four magnets built into it under the front and back corners to secure the gauntlet together.
Velcro will be lined on the sides to secure the gauntlet to the sleeve in such a way that the paddles of the top and bottom piece are lined up on either side of the elbow. The battery pack will be stream-line and under the top face of the gauntlet. It will be painted black and given a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.
The hand armor is made of layers of 1/8- and 1/16-inch sintra. It is fairly simple in its construction with detail work built up on it. It secures to the glove with Chicago screws. It will have a small flap of Velcro under it to protect the glove. It is painted black with metallic aluminum weathering and given a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.
The belt is made of both foam and sintra. The main part of the belt is made of a 1/4-inch piece of foam. On top of that is a 1/8-inch piece of foam detailing with another that has the buckle detail cut out of it.
The buckle and details directly next to the buckle are made with 1/16-inch sintra, layered in some cases, and attached into the foam with Chicago screws. The “pouch” pieces are made with both 1/8-inch and 1/16-inch pieces of sintra and attached similarly.
The belt connects in the rear with a pair of side-release buckles. There is also a 1/4-inch thick flap that velcroes onto the rear of the belt to hide the buckles. The flap has a 1/8-inch façade with detail lines drawn in it that covers the top of the butt armor. It includes a detail made of sintra that Chicago screws into the flap to cover it.
The belt is held to the torso padding with velcro under it. The belt is painted black and given metallic aluminum weathering. The details are painted silver. It is all given a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.
The knee armor is made with pieces of 1/8-inch sintra built around a piece of 1/2-inch foam (for comfort). The top and detail face includes a 1/16-inch façade with detail lines. The sintra only extends to the side seams. The piece of foam comes out from under the sintra to wrap around the leg. It includes a 1/8-inch foam façade with detail lines on it. The foam is anchored to the knee armor with Chicago screws and velcroes under the inside-leg part of the armor.
The knee piece has Velcro on it to secure it to the trousers. It is painted black and weathered metallic aluminum with a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.
The mail part of the shin armor is made using a 1/8-inch plate of sintra bent slightly around the front of the leg. It has a 1/8-inch façade over this with detail lines cut in it. There is another piece on the top of it, as well as a couple of pieces going down the front as further details.
There is a piece of ¼-inch foam that wraps around the back of the leg. It is connected to the sintra with Velcro on the outside of the leg and a nylon strap on the inside of the leg.
The shin armor secures to the calf padding with two strips of velcro down either side. It is painted black with a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.
The shin armor is made using layers of 1/8-inch sintra that is shaped and glued together. There is a façade over the base later with holes in it, but those holes are the actual location of the Chicago screws that attach the Achilles armor to the boot. It is painted black with a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish will be painted on to show further weathering details.
The boot armor is three separate pieces. The top two pieces are made of 1/8-inch sintra layers with a foam base (to protect the boot). They have a layered 1/16-inch detail with detail lines cut into the façade. They attach to the boot with Chicago screws.
The wrap-around piece on the back of the boot is made of two pieces of 1/16-inch form with a detail line cut into the façade. It will attach to the boot with Velcro.
They are painted black with a semi-gloss finish. Small lines of flat finish can be painted on to show further weathering details.
Showing the inside zipper of the Canon boot
Showing the outside zipper of the canon boot
BOOT: Example of an acceptable boot. This boot has a zipper both inside "and" outside of the boot. This style is impossible to find, so if your not into boot upgrades, purchasing a boot with the zipper on the outside of the boot "or" the inside is fine.
The main part of the mask can be made with 1/16-inch sintra as a medium for a pepakura model. For most of the details it will be layered. The silver screens can be aluminum and backed with a light black cloth to help with air circulation. The sections between the horizontal bars on the front of the mouth can likewise be backed with cloth for air circulation. The lights can be made with red acrylic with LEDs behind them. The LEDs can be cushioned so no light bleeds inside the mask. A fan can be located in front of the mouth for both air circulation and to add a chopped mechanical tone to the voice when you speak.
A LINK TO PURCHASE YOUR SABER:
A LINK TO PURCHASE A DARTH MALGUS SABER:
The main part of the makeup will be a pair of Sith contacts (yellow in the center and red on the edges). The scars on the cheeks will be accomplished with collodion and some shadowing using makeup. The eye sockets will be darkened with makeup.
The baldness and veins can be accomplished using a bald wig. It will extend over the eyebrows and down the sideburns where it will be spirit gummed on. It will have blue yarn glued onto the underside of it in points as well as blue coloring painted lightly onto the underside in points. The back will include a snap to connect to the mask.
To Lord Volund Starfire, this is absolutely incredible work. TDE is extremely honored to call you one of us.
With the utmost appreciation… Thank You For This Tutorial.
FOR A COMPARISON IN COSTUMING INTEGRITY
(TDE Member To Be Added)
Thread Under de-Struction. Costuming Integrity Photos To Come